In part 1 of our alien invasion series we covered filming UFOs with the best possible detail using a superzoom camera. While this camera will also work at night, it will definitely work best in daylight conditions. In part 2 of the series we’re therefore going to look at filming UFOs in night-time conditions.
Remember: we do this to prevent the alien invasion apocalypse. If you haven’t yet, please scoot over to part 1 of this series to catch up. The basic premise is that as long as the majority of the population mocks the existence of extraterrestrials, we as a people will never prepare for a possible alien invasion. The very first step in preparing therefore, is proving to the world, beyond a sliver of a doubt, that ufos exist. And that’s why we’re looking at cameras that can record more than shaky white dots.
So you’re driving down the road and notice a large bright light hovering silently beside your car and maintaining the same speed as you. You keep your whits about you and grab for your phone. You activate the camera, nearly swing off the road in your haste, but you recover. You don’t know whether to keep going or pull over but you decide to use one hand to steer and the other to control the camera on the phone. Click! You’ve got it!
Overcome with bravery you now decide to pull over and get an even better shot. You pull over and get out of the car. The craft has stopped too and is hovering about 40 yards in front of you. You can see it in all it’s glory: It’s the size of a shed, has an oval shape, and several lights running round the middle rim. You make out what appear to be two view ports above the lights. Click! Click! You’re getting some really good pics now. You can’t wait to tell everybody.
Until you catch a gimps of the thumbnail and it looks mostly black!? You quickly hit the thumbnail to look at the complete picture. It’s three white dots on a nearly completely black canvas. The only thing that isn’t black is the sand illuminated by your car’s headlights. You scroll through, and they’re all the same. The craft begins to move away slowly. You decide to try the camcorder to catch it moving. But alas that turns out as three dots shaking and twirling over the same black canvas. You go back to picture mode and look through the settings: ‘landscape’, ‘faces’, ‘HDR’, ‘night-time’. You try the night-time setting. Click! It’s worse! Now you just see a bunch more sand lit up by the flash and the dots are even fainter. The craft suddenly shoots away and it’s gone.
For the next couple of days you try to tell people and show them your ‘evidence’. Not even the dog believes you. And that dog loves you. Your partner is like “Honey, I believe, you believe you saw something” and the dog looks at you and just lays down and rests it’s head between its paws. Then it looks away.
While sad, this is a common yet totally preventable outcome. All you needed to do was prepare in advance of this event by getting a Sony A7S low light camera. It’s the same size as a regular camera, but in terms of night-time performance it packs a punch like no other.
The quality of a picture generally depends on three things: the aperture, shutter speed and the ISO value. ISO just means International Organization for Standardization but what it represents is the camera’s sensitivity to light. So where regular cameras have a max light sensitivity of ISO around 6400 or 12600, and really terrific cameras go up to 25600, the Sony A7S has a max light sensitivity of 409600. It is color night vision, people!
It is worth noting that you can also use this camera for nightly reconnaissance due to it’s night vision properties.
In part 3 we will look at how to prepare for an alien invader that disembarks and is hostile.